#5.1 A Stoner’s Guide to Natural Highs in India (Mountains)

No Drugs Required: Just Mountains, Deserts, and Waves

Agraj Rathi
8 min readAug 4, 2024

At 24, having just quit my first job due to burnout and without a clue about my next move, I set off on a journey where jet lag was the least of my worries. It had been 5 years since I last visited India.

Aerial view of Bangalore
After a marathon 48-hour door-to-door odyssey, I finally found myself in my hometown, a city that treats traffic jams like an Olympic sport. (Spoiler alert: In 2022, Bengaluru was the second-most congested city in the world, only behind London, UK)

As I stumbled into my childhood home, my body clock doing the macarena, I realized this was just the prelude to my first Indian adventure in a long time. While most people would hibernate after such a trip, I chose the path of the clinically insane. I rallied my high school squad for a month-long expedition.

Our destination? The breathtaking (quite literally) landscapes of Himachal Pradesh. I didn’t know this impulse decision would lead to encounters with ancient ecosystems, cosmic insignificance, and a serious case of altitude-induced philosophy. Buckle up, folks. This is not your regular “finding yourself” story — unless “yourself” happens to be gasping for air at 11,000 ft while contemplating the universe.

Chapter 1: Himalayan Heights

Natural High #1: Get Spiritually High.

Before we got our hands dirty in the wild, we cleansed our souls at the Golden Temple in Amritsar, Punjab. Also, our flight landed there, and as an apatheist, I’m always curious why millions find meaning in faith.

The Golden Temple, Amritsar, is the holiest site in Sikhism and welcomes over 150,000 visitors daily. This was our first stop, setting the tone for the unity and adventure ahead.

After our pitstop, we headed onwards to Dharamsala, the home of the Dalai Lama and the headquarters of the Tibetan Government in Exile. Dharamsala is a melting pot of cultures, spiritual wisdom, and stunning landscapes. As we strolled through the narrow streets lined with prayer flags fluttering in the breeze, the air was thick with incense and the distant hum of chanting monks. The Golden Temple’s ethereal beauty had set the tone, but Dharamsala took it to a whole new level.

Still in awe of the beauty we were witnessing, we spent our time here in a few different hostels, meeting a fantastic crew and spending our free time playing chess and planning hikes. Though we visited many unique places like the Bhagsu Nag Falls, St. John’s in the Wilderness, the emerald green Dal Lake, the Tibetan Museums, and even the Dalai Lama’s residence, one experience stands out vividly in my memory.

The Tibetan Flag Temple. The journey was an unfrequented trail, and only the locals knew how to get there without getting lost.

As luck would have it, we got hopelessly lost in the wilderness, bushwhacking our way through dense forest.

We trekked through streams, our shoes squelching with each step. We stumbled across an abandoned cricket pitch on a tiny flat part of the mountain (bless the poor soul who has to get the ball when someone hits a boundary up here), and then there was the Stinging Nettle, or Bichu Booti, that left us all in tears and itching like mad. Every minute that passed was making us curse our adventurous spirits. And I was definitely feeling the heat from both the fiery plant and my friends, whom I’d convinced that I knew the path ahead.

Just when it seemed like we’d be stuck in nature’s labyrinth forever, we stumbled upon thousands of pieces of colourful cloth fluttering in the wind, and a quaint monastery nestled in the trees atop the mountain.

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A serene monastery with prayer flags.
The flag temple — where monks unlock the secrets of the universe while we struggle to get a stable phone signal. The prayer flags, known as Lungta, are an essential part of Tibetan culture. Each color represents an element: blue for sky, white for air, red for fire, green for water, and yellow for Earth. These flags are inscribed with prayers and mantras, believed to be carried by the wind to spread goodwill and compassion.

The monasteries dotting the Himalayan landscape offered a different kind of elevation — one of consciousness and philosophical inquiry. In Dharamsala, watching monks engage in deep meditation practices, I found myself contemplating the nature of consciousness itself. These practitioners, through years of disciplined mental training, seem to access altered states of awareness that make your average mindfulness app look like a game of Candy Crush.

What do they get from this — the silence, poverty, contemplation, celibacy?

Philosophy Bite: The sight of monks deep in meditation sparked a radical thought: What if the true nature of reality isn’t something to be understood through science or intellect, but something to be experienced through the stillness of the mind? These monks spend decades, if not lifetimes, honing their mental faculties to transcend ordinary perception, potentially accessing levels of consciousness and universal truths that remain elusive to the rest of us.

It’s a stark contrast to our modern lives, where we’re perpetually plugged in and distracted. Their detachment from material pursuits is as admirable as it is revolutionary.

They challenge the very foundations of what we consider important, suggesting that the keys to happiness and understanding might lie in inward exploration rather than external achievements.

Fantasizing about what life could be like as a monk, far away from the rest of the world, I was struck by a profound sense of curiosity. Could I ever detach myself from the chaos and constant connectivity of modern life? Could I find solace and enlightenment in simplicity and silence? The idea was both terrifying and exhilarating.

At this moment, I realized that this journey through the Himalayas wasn’t just about conquering physical heights. It was about exploring the peaks and valleys of my own consciousness, challenging my perceptions, and contemplating the boundless possibilities of the human mind. To challenge myself, I deleted my all social media accounts and haven’t looked back since (LinkedIn and WhatsApp don’t count!).

This was the beginning of a profound, introspective journey. As we descended back to our hostel, tired but elated, the lessons of the monks lingered with me. The Himalayas had whispered their secrets, and I was beginning to listen.

Natural High #2: Get Physically High.

The oxygen-deprivation high, the runner’s high, endorphins from exercising, the high from feeling accomplished about climbing a massive mountain! Call it what you want but this is a great way to feel good about yourself.

5 Mind-Blowing Facts About the Himalayas

  1. Home to over 10,000 plant species. The Himalayas host an incredible diversity of flora, including vibrant rhododendrons and rare blue poppies, many of which are found nowhere else on Earth.
  2. Contains 300+ mammal species and 977 bird species. This region is a wildlife haven, home to snow leopards, red pandas, Himalayan tahrs, and nearly 1,000 bird species like the Himalayan monal and cheer pheasant.
  3. Continues to grow a few millimeters each year. Formed by tectonic collisions, the Himalayas are still growing at a few millimeters per year (bro, please stop and give me those mm instead).
  4. Known as the “Third Pole”. The Himalayas influence global climate. They store vast freshwater reserves, influence major river systems, and stop southward winds, affecting monsoon dynamics in India and beyond.
  5. Has over 1500 lakes, including the world’s highest saltwater lake. The Himalayas include Pangong Tso, the world’s highest saltwater lake.

Standing at the foot of these colossal structures, I was struck by the raw, awesome power of geology in action. The Himalayas, formed roughly 50 million years ago when a floating India decided to headbutt Asia are a testament to the unstoppable forces shaping our planet. I wonder how the Earth will look 50 million years later.

Over the duration of our stay, we trekked to 3 different summits.

Squad goals: Conquer mountains, find enlightenment, and try not to pass out from altitude sickness.

The first one was Triund. As a Himalayan virgin, this trek hooked me faster than free Wi-Fi. After hours of hiking (and our guide’s endless “just 5 more minutes” lies), we reached the top at 5 PM. While my friends collapsed into their tents, I, drunk on altitude-induced bravado, decided to push on to Snowline (the next peak).

Science Bite: At 2,500+ meters, where the air is thinner than your ex’s patience, our bodies go into overdrive. When you ascend to higher elevations, the reduced oxygen levels trigger a physiological response to compensate for the lower oxygen availability. Your body starts producing more red blood cells to increase oxygen delivery to tissues. This process, called acclimatization, involves the kidneys releasing a hormone called erythropoietin (EPO), which stimulates red blood cell production in the bone marrow.

Altitude also impacts muscle function and metabolism. Reduced oxygen availability means that muscles rely more on anaerobic processes, leading to faster accumulation of lactate and quicker onset of fatigue. Over time, however, the body becomes more efficient, improving overall endurance and performance.

As I climbed higher and higher, feeling like a badass sherpa, I stumbled upon some local shepherds casually strolling in flip-flops. After a quick chat, I found out that they do this every day—for fun. It was a humbling moment indeed. These Pahari people, with generations of high-altitude living, evolved for this terrain and made my wheezing ascent look like a toddler’s first steps.

Natural High #3: Ask Snoop Dogg.

Just kidding! It’s extreme sports!

The wild adventure continued with white-water rafting in the Beas River’s freezing waters (where hypothermia meets adrenaline) and paragliding from Bir Billing (the world’s second-highest site for controlled falling).

I was hopelessly addicted to mountain madness.

Next up was Rasol, where I challenged myself to a same-day round trip. I was excited because I was doing this trip alone. Midway through, I stumbled upon fields of wild cannabis.

wild cannabis growing on the mountain of Rasol
Disclaimer: Shaky camera work due to altitude, not altitude… if you know what I mean.

It sparked reflections on the complex relationship between humans and psychoactive plants throughout history. It’s fascinating to consider how these naturally occurring compounds have influenced human consciousness, spirituality, and even the trajectory of entire civilizations.

The final peak, Kheerganga, was a bit of a buzzkill—overcrowded and commercialized. But I did see something really cool. While we were huffing and puffing up the mountain, the local wildlife was putting on a show of effortless grace. Eagles rode thermal updrafts like Silver Surfers, demonstrating a masterclass in aerodynamics and energy conservation.

Eagles surfing thermals like cosmic wave riders
Look at them! They don’t flap even once! Ultimate freeloaders. These avian overachievers exploit naturally occurring columns of rising warm air to gain altitude with minimal energy expenditure. It’s nature’s way of saying, “Work smarter, not harder.” Meanwhile, we were working harder and not necessarily smarter.

As we descended down the mountain, I learned a profound lesson in scale and perspective. Standing amidst peaks that have witnessed the rise and fall of countless human civilizations, one can’t help but feel a sense of cosmic insignificance. Yet, paradoxically, this realization was oddly comforting. The silent wisdom of the monks, the effortless grace of the eagles, and the raw power of nature had all conspired to teach me lessons I never knew I needed.

“Chill bro. Your problems are tiny, and so are you — so don’t worry!” — this mountain

This expedition into the heart of the Himalayas wasn’t just about conquering mountains or ticking off bucket list items. It was about discovering the vastness of the world and the depths within myself. As the crisp Himalayan air filled my lungs one last time, I couldn’t help but feel that this was just the beginning of a lifelong journey of exploration—both outward and inward.

Whatever lay ahead, I knew I’d face it with the strength and wisdom gained from dancing with the clouds on the roof of the world.

After all, once you’ve touched the sky, there’s no limit to where you can go.

Next up: The deserts of Rajasthan and reconnecting with my ancestral roots. Get ready for a cultural deep dive, more natural highs, and unexpected adventures.

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Agraj Rathi
Agraj Rathi

Written by Agraj Rathi

Adventurer, conservationist, science writer. From corporate to the wild, Agraj is on a mission to explore, uncover, and inspire. www.linkedin.com/in/agrajrathi/

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